I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:
Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator
- Car Quest #11017A
- Pure Energy # 13940N
- Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
- Plug 306
- 2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
- OE Manufacturer: Valeo
I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx
Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals
The alternator was supplied with a serpentine pulley. Because I am air conditioning the Jag, and the compressor uses a “V” belt, I switched out the pulley for a “V” pulley with a 17 mm shaft. I had to have a machinist turn the pulley on a lathe to cut away some material to end up with a good fit.More to come on the mounting and wiring of the alternator.
To be determined.
I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.
|direct.||: CCW (topview)|
|voltage||: 4,0-15,0 Volts|
|range||: 500 – 7000 rpm|
|temperature||: -30 to 85 Celsius|
|coil||: stock or High Energy coil|
|primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm|
|dwell||: constant current, fully autom.|
|time-out||: after 1 second current is switched off|
|spark-bal.||: better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft|
|vacuum||: advance starts at 5 inchHg|
|stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg|
|gearshift retard > 17 inchHg|
|max.advance||: 45 degr. crankshaft|
|wiring||: red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil
Installation instructions are available here:
The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower” high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.
Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring
I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.
I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.
High Torque starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.
I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.
Upgraded Brake Switch
I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.
While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.
The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.
Horn Mounting Brackets
Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.” The horn is secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x 3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.
The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.
This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.
This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:
Horn Wiring Clip
This clip mounts on the RH Wing Valance and secures a 4 way electrical junction for horn wiring. It fastens to the valance with two #8 – 36 x 1/2″ machine screws with shake proof washers and nuts.
Headlamp Dipper Switch
The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the food switch.
The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.
Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher
My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.
There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two or the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.
To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.
Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.
It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.
I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.
After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!
Turn Signal Indicator Lights
The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.
The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:
I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.
Brake Fluid and Handbrake Warning Lamp
The lamp is activated by a switch at the base of the handbrake, mounted to a bracket located on the interior floor. See: http://valvechatter.us/?p=3913 under the handbrake post, or by a level sensor in the brake fluid reservoir.
The “Warning Lamp Indicating Handbrake “ON’ Position and Level in Brake Fluid Container” is comprised of the cover and window assembly, a spring washer on the central terminal post, with nuts and washers. Rubber sleeves are slipped over the white wire at the terminal and the white and red/green wires are contained together in a rubber sleeve of about 4.” The switch was cleaned and reassembled and a new face plate was ordered. These are a couple of images after renewal of the switch
Lucas Three Position Lighting Switch
The three position light switch is wired as shown below. I was able to clean the switch and will reuse it.